The injectors I bought were unfortunately second-hand. So to ensure their operation, I asked the vendor to perform injector flow matching to 2%. This costs an additional $30... The results sheet was also sent with the injectors. Nice!
Alright! On to installation!
Before mucking around with the fuel rail, the fuel system needs to be depressurised. To do this, I first disconnected the fuel pump connector under the carpeting at the boot of the Echo, cranked the engine until it could not start (relieving excess fuel) then opened the fuel tank cap to relieve the remaining pressure.
As a safety precaution, I made sure there was no open flames and that the battery was disconnected and covered to prevent any shorts/arcing.
Now for the 1NZFE motor, the cam cover actually prevents the fuel rail to be lifted and removed. All because of this little latch.
So to remove the cam cover, the coil packs need to be removed. Don't forget to take note which coil pack goes to which cylinder!
Once the cam cover is removed, the injectors can be unplugged, taking note which connector goes to which injector. The injectors can then be removed by unbolting the fuel rail and slowly lifting the fuel rail out. Once removed, the injectors may be removed from the fuel rail (or block if they happen to stick to it). Be careful as excess fuel may flow out of the rail.
Next, clean the area where the injectors sit on the block by removing and debris or gunk. Be sure not to get anything into that hole though!
Once cleaning is complete, inspect the new injectors and using some excess fuel, coat the o-rings and injector seats. This to get the lubrication happening. Seat the injectors in the fuel rail, making sure they sit firmly. Then lower the fuel rail and injectors onto the block, matching the injector ports with the injectors. This can be tricky... If putting the injectors on the rail is difficult, you can put the injectors in the port first then put the fuel rail on top. Whichever works for you!
Once the injectors are seated into the injector ports of the block, check that each injector is seated snugly. The injector seat pressed against the block and the O-rings at the rear of the injector (in the fuel rail) creates a seal. Once checked, bolt up the fuel rail and recheck seating.
Once you're confident that the injectors are seated correctly, return the cam cover (replacing the gasket if need be) and clean up the surrounding area.
While the coil packs are removed, might as well get these spark plugs in! I first removed the existing plugs and man they had an interesting life!
To assist with maintenance and create a nice seal between the threads, I applied anti-seize to the threads of the spark plug. Anti-seize is a lubricant that prevents threaded items to seize and fuse together.
Cool, once done, the coil packs are connected up (to the correct cylinder number), battery reconnected, fuel tank capped and fuel pump reconnected!
The factory computer should be able to compensate for the additional fuel but to make sure the AEM FIC is correctly pulling the additional fuel, the FIC's fuel map needs to be adjusted (explained in my next post)!
Cranking may take a little longer as the fuel systems has been depressurised and there's no fuel in the rail so don't fret! Once started, inspect the injectors and check that there's no leaks between the injector and the rail, and the injector and the block. If all is good, job done! Take her for a spin and check your short and long term fuel trim data!
Oh, I'd better talk about how the AEM FIC was setup. That'll be next!
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